Manning the Ship

In the fall of 2021, Mike was approached to go back to work at St Mary’s AveraHospital in Pierre, South Dakota where he had worked for nearly 10 years prior to moving onto Voyager. He had filled in 3-4 shifts/month as they needed help. When they called him, we were in Maine, dropping anchor and he wasn’t sure if or where he would be working when we went back to SD in the coming months. He had worked at Fall River Healthcare in Hot Springs when we were home the preceding 2 years, but they had gone a different route with staffing.

The blue “scoop” you see on deck is a wind scoop that funnels air into the cabin while we are anchored. It’s lovely. The yellow cans you see lined up near the lifelines are the diesel jerry cans we keep extra fuel in.

As Mike had decided to go ahead and take some shifts in Pierre, we had to come up with a plan for him to not only get to and from the boat to work, but how Matthew and I would manage without him. That sounds a little melodramatic, but there are a lot of aspects to take into account.

Because Pierre, SD and Rock Sound, Eleuthera are both rather remote locations, the flights and accommodations are tricky. We booked the flight from Nassau to Pierre before we left St Marys. Because we didn’t know where we would be when it came time for him to go, we waited to book the flight to Nassau. Two weeks ago, we decided where he would fly from and got that sorted. While most of the Bahamian islands have airports, flights are rarely everyday, maybe a couple times a week. As a result, Mike flew from Rock Sound, stayed at an AirBnb, then caught his flight to Denver, got a room there, then onto Pierre in time to work. This was 3 days and 2 nights to get to work. Coming home, he was able to fly from Pierre to Nassau (stops in Denver in Miami), stay one night then arrived home this morning. It’s a bit of a hassle and mental gymnastics to get him there and back! The good news was we could dingy him to and from the airport rather than him taking a taxi or hitchhiking.

If you haven’t lived, or even spent much time on a boat, there are things you wouldn’t even think of. For instance, the refrigerator isn’t on all the time. It has to be turned on/off as the temperature demands. Same with hot water. Oh and the water….. we store 200 gallons, but we have to “make” the water, fill at marinas, or carry it from shore in jerry cans. “Making water” means desalination. We take the sea water and convert into drinking water. Our electricity is from solar and the generator. This has to be monitored. Luckily most days are sunny and the solar (don’t get Mike or Matthew started on our solar) is more than sufficient for our needs. However, a cloudy day means running the genset for power to the fridge and to keep the batteries topped off.

We also had the mundane chores; laundry, regular cleaning and upkeep, obtaining fuel in jerry cans to top off the tanks, provisions, making sure the dogs get enough exercise. You get the idea.

Besides boat chores, Matthew had school and we found a few fun things to do. We went to the Methodist Church on Sunday. There is the Ocean Hole and Caves, as well. We have met many new friends and reunited with a few we met previously. Journey, a crew we met in the Chesapeake last summer was standing outside the grocery store the other day when I was walking in. What a pleasant surprise! I also met a very sweet family that follows us on Instagram, as well as others. I love these moments!

Mike arrived home today and brought “treats” from home. The most exciting of these is Starlink! We have spoken with so many other cruisers, Venotlines included, that have been using Starlink. The wifi access available with Starlink is incomparable. We are looking forward to having access for weather and float plans as well as school, movie streaming and obviously keeping in touch with family and friends at home.

My man is home!

Eleuthera Means Freedom

We’ve been to Eleuthera a few times, now. We are reminded with each visit just what a special place it is to us.

Eleuthera was named Cigateo originally. It became Eleuthera when Puritan colonists arrived from Bermuda in 1648. They were known as the “Eleutheran Adventurers”. There’s a cave on Eleuthera called Preachers Cave. I’ve written about it before, I think. It was discovered by Captain Sayles of the Eleutheran Adventurers when their 2 ships wrecked at Devils Backbone. The 70 Puritans sought shelter in the huge cave and even carved a pulpit from stone. It still stands with a placard to mark it. Devils Backbone is a notorious chain of reefs. It has quite a reputation among sailors, therefore, caution and planning are required before proceeding through.

Pink sand beaches are something else Eleuthera is known for. Today, in fact, I collected some of this unique sand in an orange juice bottle. The color comes from microscopic coral insects known as Foraminifera. (www.bahamas.com). It’s really something to behold, looking closely at the tiny pink and red flecks in the sand. When the sea washed up it becomes especially bright. The most well known beaches on the island are Harbor Island in the north and working south you’ll find Surfers Beach, French Leave Beach, and Lighthouse Beach. There are smaller ones along the way, but these are the best known. Lighthouse Beach is probably the most beautiful beach we have ever set foot on. It is now owned by Disney, however. Our second favorite would therefore be French Leave Beach or what we call the Club Med beach, due to the Club Med Eleuthera ruins adjacent to the beach. You know how we love exploring ruins and anything with any history!

Governors Harbor is where we are currently anchored and where the French Leave/Club Med beach is nearest. Governor’s Harbor was settled in the mid 17th century, when the Adventures landed. It’s a lovely little town, with beautiful people. Last night we took in the Fish Fry, which is held every Friday night from 6-9pm. We had chicken and pork, because I feel they do it so well. Then there is a limbo compatition in the street. Matthew and Wyatt participated and we danced and watched and recorded.

We have been in the Bahamas for a month already! It’s so hard to believe it. This trip, we intend to make our way to a few islands we haven’t been to before. Mike will be flying home to work the 25th of March and returning the 31st. Matthew and I will be in Rock Sound while he’s gone. When he returns, we will cross over to Cat Island. We have several friends who claim this is their favorite of all the 700 Bahamian islands. I can’t wait to explore. From there we plan to go Conception which looks like the most beautiful place on earth! The Crooked and Acklins, Raggeds and Jumentos (we have been to Water Cay there) are also on the list. We may be really hopping island to island for March and April!

So, just to review; We checked in upon crossing the Gulf Stream at West End, Grand Bahama. From there, we made our way to the Abaco Islands. Abaco, you may remember, was hit hardest by Dorian in 2019. That, incidentally, was the last time we were there. Abaco has many points of interest, most notably is probably Hope Town and the lighthouse. It is the only remaining Fresnel, kerosene powered lighthouse in the world.

Also of note is that we began our Bahamas tour with our new pretend son, Preston, 23. We met Preston in Vero Beach, Florida. He was single handing his 27′ C&C, learning to sail as he went. We were happy to take him under our *very* parental wings, along with Ventolines. While buddy boating with us, we taught him to trim his sails, a little navigation, a little fishing and we fed him, alot. He has just left us this week and God willing will make landfall back in the US today. He formed a pretty tight bond with all of us, but especially Matthew and Wyatt. Jennifer and I were pretty torn up when he left- our mama hearts were very sad to let him go. It is easier knowing his own family was waiting for him and he will continue the dream. He is off to law school this fall and we will be staying in touch. He isn’t rid of us, yet!

Matthew and Wyatt continue their brother like relationship. They have been hunting lobster and spearing fish. Matthew isn’t the angler Wyatt is by a longshot, but he tries to be a good sport about it. They also use the dinghies like a teenager on land uses the car. From hauling trash (offering to take other boats trash as well) to shore, running to the grocery store, to introducing themselves to other boats that just might have a girl on board…..  They are definitely the social butterflies of the harbor!

Sapphire Blue Hole

We have also met new friends, Sean and Rhonda on SV Peace. They are a very sweet couple we look forward to spending a lot more time with this season.

Ok- that’s probably enough for now. Mike likes to discuss all the solar power we have on board and that we are gaining a reputation as a power plant (Preston charged his batteries on Voyager). So- look forward to a blog post on powering Voyager, coming soon.

The Queen’s Baths. The boys were the only souls brave enough to go down. And the moms weren’t impressed.

Slainte’

Observations from Mt Vernon

Let us begin by saying, “WOW”. As amateur history buffs, what took us so long to get here?

In 2008, we skipped Mt Vernon, but took in Monticello. These farms and homes are as different as the men who owned them. Where Monticello is beautiful and a mixture of styles with Jefferson’s own inventions and constant state of remodel throughout, Mt Vernon is elegant and maybe a little understated. While there are luxurious elements, expensive paint, fabrics and furniture, the rooms are relatively small and simply decorated. Washington believed in using good quality items, whether for his home or his appearance. He inherited the home from his half brother’s widow, Anne Washington. Initially the home was a typical eighteenth century 2 up, 2 down design. By the time all the renovations were complete, Mt Vernon boasted a ball room called “The New Room”, 2 parlors and 9 guest rooms. The only one of these guest rooms known for sure to have hosted someone of significance is the Lafeyette room. It is known only due to Lafeyette’s correspondence, in which he mentions his accommodations. It goes without saying, that many other important people stayed with the Washington family, but there is no record in which room anyone in particular stayed.

The farm is expansive. At one point, he owned 8000 acres. He was known as the best horseman of his age. The stables and farmyard at Mt Vernon reflect the pride he took in his animals. His 2 favorite horses were a grey called Blueskin and a chestnut called Nelson. Blueskin especially was known to be “bombproof”. They were heavy and stout horses that could easily carry Washington’s 6ft 2-inch frame. These 2 horses went to war with him and came home with him.

We took the regular tour of the home, which begins every 5 minutes. There are so many people, that this is necessary. There is an option for an in depth tour, given once a day and includes all rooms from the attic to the cellar. It’s $60 and although more than I’d normally pay for a house tour, was really tempted to do it this time. The tour we took was very rushed. Literally 5 minutes per room, maybe a question answered but probably not, generic information given then herded into the next room. I looked longingly into the stairway to the 3rd floor….both of them. I have questions. I want to feel the presence of the Washingtons. I want to hear the stories. I want to see the room that Martha retreated to on the 3rd floor after her husband passed away in their shared bed chamber.

Something that the Mt Vernon’s Ladies Association, owners of the estate, do well, is acknowledge and honor the enslaved who lived there. Their names are spoken and remembered. There is also a memorial to tribute them, near the tombs of the Washingtons. Graveyards and graves are also noted and marked. The enslaved butler, Frank Wills was the one who, when guests presented themselves, would determine if they were worthy of a visit with the family. He had that power. Also, of note is that Washington emancipated his slaves upon his death. There is considerable debate on why he waited until that time, but it was unusual to do it at all. In the end he followed his conscience.

OK- so I am enamored with Mt Vernon. I could go on for ages. I’ll leave it here and strongly recommend that if anyone has the opportunity to visit Mt Vernon, do it. You won’t be sorry. The general admission for the grounds is $28, there is a discount for military, first responders and medical personnel. The tour of the house is $6 more (I think).

One last thing I’ll mention is that if you are arriving by boat, it’s a unique situation. We had purchased our tickets online. We dingy’d to the wharf dock. There was not a dockmaster on site. There was no one monitoring our coming and going. We first went through the farmyard and I approached a worker there, asking if I needed to show our tickets anywhere. She said we did not, only when we went into the house. So, when it was time for the house, we got in line. No one looked at our tickets. When purchasing, I had also added the guidebook to my cart. I asked a worker on the front lawn where I would go to pick that up. She said I should have gotten in when coming in through the main entrance….. and therein lies the problem. So, we made our way backwards through the “do not enter” signs and got the guidebook. We then realized there was a museum we had missed by not coming in the usual way. We went back to the boat, had lunch and returned to the museum. We were there until closing and faced our next problem. The guests were being ushered out….through the exit to the parking lot. So, we asked a guard to let us out the door that would allow us to backtrack to the wharf. “No, we can’t do that, ” said in utter confusion. Apparently, our situation is unique, or the staff we were dealing with didn’t know it was possible to arrive by boat. The end result is we were escorted and driven to the wharf by armed guards and made sure we went to our boat. However, I’m still not convinced they ever checked the wharf again after that. I would have loved to sneak back into the mansion…. yes, I know, I’m sure I would have invited a lot more attention than that of an armed escort off the property.

Until next time,

Slainte’

Yorktown

Have you ever listened to someone tell a story and felt you were there? Have you been somewhere, a museum or exhibit and there were reenactors that were so good that you believed they were the character they are portraying in real life? I’ve had 2 of these experiences. Megan was living in Virginia Beach at the time, so we had reason to visit Virginia on more than one occasion. The first was in Colonial Williamsburg in 2007. We were in the Capitol and the reenactor was a woman. She was in period clothing, obviously and was very convincing in her part. There were many of us in the group, 30-40 at least and all ages. She proceeded around the room and telling us the story of the colonials gathering in this room to discuss and plan for the impending declaration for independence. She (I wish I knew her name) would stand behind individuals in the group and whisper in their ear what was said and that person would say it out loud. The entire group was quiet and respectful, it seemed we all understood the significance of what was being said and decided. Somehow, that short tour and her presentation has stuck with me and will forever.

The second time was a year later, at the Yorktown Battlefield. Mike, Sean, Megan and I were there for a tour. The guide this time was a national park ranger, and again I wish I could remember her name. She was in ranger garb, not dressed as a reenactor. We toured the battlefield, learning about various companies and what was happening at each, as well as what was going on “in town”. This included where Lord Cornwallis had his headquarters and where when things got tough, he hid in a *cave* or something like it. The exact area isn’t known, although there is a cave where the townspeople took shelter along the waterfront. Right. At one point at the edge of a field, the guide is telling us about the last night before the last battle. It was to be a full moon, thereby enough light for each side to see what the other was up to. Cornwallis’s men had thought to make a run across the York River to Glouster Point. A storm came up and foiled that plan. The guide proceeds to tell us how this was like a Weather Channel segment of “When Weather Changed History”. Not only was there no way for the British to make a run for the other side of the river, but the storm made it possible for the Americans and French to dig their fortifications and take redoubts 9 and 10 without notice. She was so animated in the telling, I had goosebumps! Again, I will never forget.

So, here we are back in the area. We aren’t making it back to Williamsburg, but for sure taking a better look at Yorktown. Anyone who has followed us for a minute knows we love history. More precisely we like all the old stuff. Old houses. Old buildings in general. Old tools and implements. Old boats. Old furniture and kitchen gadgets. How people used to live and their stories, especially.

While Colonial Williamsburg is a living history (town) museum, Yorktown is a presently lived in town. While Mike walked dogs (King can’t be trusted alone for very long, yet) Matthew and I attended the morning worship service at Grace Church. This church was established in 1697 and has had an active congregation since then. We thought it would be fun to visit, and it was. We met a lovely couple, Betsy and her husband (I really need to get better at name retention). They asked us the usual “where are you from” questions and we talked about dogs and hunting and living on a boat and the ever present “how did you get here from South Dakota?” I told them my story about Williamsburg and the battlefield, and they introduced me to a retired NPS ranger. She was very kind and said she was already retired in 2008 but loved to hear how the presentation had affected me.

We walked all over the small town and visited the American Revolution Museum and the Watermans Museum. On The Hill Gallery features local artists, we spent a bit of time there and made a purchase. It’s just the kind of place we like to shop. There are many little beaches and because it was a weekend, they were packed. The Ben and Jerry’s is a hit as well as a couple of other restaurants and a pub. We didn’t go into any of the other shops this time, but there were a few….. Mike dissuaded me from going into the bookstore. It

We took about a gazillion pictures, so here are many of them. The Schooner Alliance was here in 2008. We took a sunset cruise on it one night back then, so it was fun to see it sailing in the river where we were anchored.

Here’s a short glimpse of our sail out of Yorktown. Sailing with winds of 12-18 knots and making 5-6 knots. We just moved a little north to a new anchorage for better protection from storms blowing in. We will be gradually making our way to Washington DC by June 7th. Mike has 4 shifts scheduled in the ER in Pierre, so we thought that seemed like a good place to spend a few days at a marina and explore some more before he leaves and while he is away.

Slainte’

Long Time No Write

Well, hello there!

Where to begin….. Maybe with a statement of commitment to write more. The commitment is to myself, mind you. I kid you not, I think about writing *something* everyday. It is a sort of mind exercise, that I value. Sometimes I write in my journal. I write notes during my devotions and Bible study, have taken notes and journaled during my knee replacement recovery (more on that later).

Right. So, maybe a brief 2021 summary? When last I wrote, we were beginning 2021 with hopes and dreams and learning to navigate life at what was still a time of the ongoing pandemic. Last year was a decent one for us. Our sailing and cruising plans took a 180 degree turn, but it was GOOD!

We initially sailed down to St Marys, GA. We like the boat yard there and Mike has everything he needs there to take care of our old girl. We did some bigger projects, toured around and ended up going back to SD for a few months in the spring.

Then in June we decided to head north. We thought at first that we would sail the Chesapeake, then decided to keep going for Maine. Boy, are we happy we did that! That is territory that we will go back to. We had visited before, by land 11 years earlier and always wanted to go back. I think that’s the thing with Maine. Each visit leaves you longing for more time there.

The small fishing villages, islands that feel like they have been lost in time, ruins and national and state parks, hikes and trails, even the more “touristy” areas leave their mark. We found areas run by research partys where we learned about scallops and how they are harvested, another an Audubon camp on a nature preserve. Islands without habitation, beautiful rocky bays and beaches.

And then there’s the food. Lobstah, lobstah, lobstah! I am allergic to shellfish, but Mike and Matthew enjoyed it. Actually, Matthew isn’t the biggest fish of any kind fan, but he tried it. I discovered I can tolerate mollusks, while in Maine. So- scallops! I had my first scallops in Booth Bay, with an epipen in hand. Thank the Good Lord I didn’t need it, because I would have had a hard time not finishing my meal. YUM!

Then, there’s the people and history. We took so many walks and visited with many locals. We bought art and other crafts and just marveled at the trusting and friendly natured people we met. Truly incredible.

We had friends from SD visit towards the end of August. Rick and Dr Rachel Edelin are from Rapid City. We have known Rick for years in his life as a Pfizer rep. He and Mike had talked sailing (and any other outdoor activity) as we were planning our exodus. Mike had mutual patients with Dr Edelin, so knew her in more of a professional manner. None of us really knew how their visit would go, they were the first other than family to stay with us on board. I believe we were all pleasantly surprised with how well it went. We shared meals, hiked, kayaked, paddle boarded and talked til we were blue in the face. It was such an enjoyable time and we were blessed to have them.

We had several mishaps, as is always the case. Our centerboard decided to let itself down….twice. The first time we opted to haul out where we were to make sure we were good to continue. That was a mistake….the haul out was near disastrous as the boat was dropped unevenly in the sling. We got scraped up and lost our grill. The second time was as we were leaving NYC, we knew what it was and opted to keep going despite the horrible banging it was making. We tied it up in Hampton VA and kept going. We also had some “deck love” in NYC at the most rocky dock, ever. But, NYC was amazing, so we aren’t going to dwell on the scuffs. We developed a diesel tank leak in our midship tank. That was a near disaster for a minute. Then a water tank leak presented itself. Then, there was the BIGGIE. Our hull had shown delamination from our first haulout in 2019 and it was time to fix it. This, I think will be an entirely separate post. Mike has documented it well, so I thinking we will talk about it then. I feel like there were a few other more minor issues, but they escape me at present.

We also spent a few days in Montauk, NY, Onset, MA, Province Town, Cape Cod and Newport, RI. All places we would like to visit again. We missed Nantucket and Martha’s Vinyard and several other places. They are on the list, however.

For our last leg, from Myrtle Beach, SC to St Marys, GA our grandson Luc joined us for the first time on board. He had a really good time, and we look forward to having him again this year!

So- What’s in store for this year? Well, Mike has been working on the hull and other projects since we hauled out in November. He has been home for about 6 weeks since then. St Marys is his home away from home, for sure. What he has gotten done, on his own is quite astounding. He has repaired a 12-foot section of the hull. Stripped and prepped the entire boat for painting, among other, smaller projects. I went down for a week in January, then again in February when he was driving home. Once home, he built a new gorgeous wood helm seat (aka Erin’s booster seat) and a swim platform and dog step that will be mounted to the stern. While he was gone, I worked and prepared for my knee replacement surgery. It was put off once when I got covid 2 weeks before surgery was scheduled. So, I worked a little longer. Surgery was March 22 and I have been working hard at recovery since. Physical therapy is going well and I’m going to be given my walking (sailing) papers in a week or so. Mike has also picked up some shifts in the ED in Pierre, where he had worked for 8 years, pre-Voyager. They are, of course, happy to have him back here and there.

We plan to splash the end of May. We will initially go to St Augustine. We really like the town and are hoping Meg, Jon and Luc are able to visit while we are there. Mike will fly to SD to work a few shifts. When he gets back, we will head north. The Chesapeake is our destination for now. We have plans to be in Washington DC in July when Mike has to fly for work again. Other than that, nothing definite is on the dance card. Meg and Jon are expecting their second baby the end of August. So, we will be planning and deciding on whether to be back south before then or for me to fly home to be there when the baby comes. Stay tuned on that decision.

Until next time- Slainte’ Mhath

2021 Sailing Season… We’re Back!

Woohoo! Who else is excited to see 2021?

2020 was an odd and difficult year for many of us. While we are sure to have gotten off rather lightly, we still experienced some hardship. I struggled to find inspiration to write after we left the Bahamas. We have all been challenged to learn how to navigate the new normal and while we aren’t especially social people, we were challenged none the less.

Once we came back to the states and travelling up the East Coast, we got a feel for how social distancing worked and how to navigate it. We then secured Voyager for the hurricane season in New Bern North Carolina and drove back to South Dakota. The Hot Springs, SD hospital where Mike had worked in 2019 had been calling to see if he would come back, since March. So, he let them know he was finally on his way back and would be available shortly. The further west we drove, the more relaxed the restrictions seemed to be. I was overwhelmed when I stopped for ice in Rapid City as we were arriving home and I had to go to three locations to find it. Every store was packed and there were very few masks. Once home, we pretty much stayed there. There were a few trips to get groceries, and we had our small “bubble” of people. Our kids live on the same property. My parents have been pretty isolated, my brothers family, as well, so we felt comfortable with them. Lynn and the boys are very cautious because she is a solo provider at her vet clinic. These were the people we spent the summer with. We hiked, rode mt bikes, went canoeing, kayaking, had campfires and threw axes in the yard. I will never complain about the family time we had an abundance of this year!

In August our niece Helena went to New Bern with us and we sailed out to Ocracoke, the Outer Banks of North Carolina, for a week. This is where Blackbird’s pirate ship sank. This was a great time! There are golf carts to rent and historical places to visit. Pamlico Sound is a fantastic place to sail. Matthew and Helena played and explored on their own, as well. We tried all the ice cream and several places to eat. We would recommend a visit to Ocracoke to anyone, it was splendid!

As I mentioned earlier, Mike went right back to work. We were also still remodeling our barndominium. Matthew and I volunteered with Meals on Wheels and had a wonderful time delivering meals in Sturgis. So, time at home was full. I went back to work as well, in September. I am now recruiting for Lux Travel Nurse and took an 8 week assignment at Bennett County Hospital in Martin, SD. I hadn’t worked in a hospital setting in a few years and while initially nervous, found my footing and enjoyed the heck out of it. This is my favorite kind of nursing- small hospital- frontier medicine setting- never knowing what is coming in and relying on your skill and experience to get the job done. This facility has some amazing providers, ancillary and nursing staff. I’m looking forward to the opportunity to work with them again.

After spending Christmas at home and wrapping up our jobs, we headed back to Voyager December 26th. We stopped in Joplin, Missouri the first night and had a brief window visit with my Mamaw the next morning. I hope by the time we head back, we can have a real visit with hugs! Mike has received his first dose of covid vaccine and she will receive hers soon. Matthew actually got the virus in November and I hope to receive the vaccine soon, as well. I pray this will enable the visit to happen!

Right- so back to Voyager. The good and sturdy ship was mostly ready for us when we arrived. The sails needed to be put up, as well as the bimini, solar panels and cockpit enclosure. Organization of the cabin seemed a little more of a challenge, for some reason and took a little longer than expected. We arrived in New Bern at 0600 Monday the 28th. And despite what needed done, we were able to throw off the dock lines and headed out of the marina the evening of the 31st. We spent the first night on anchor just the other side of the bridge in New Bern. This was New Years Eve and we managed to stay up til midnight playing games and laughing together. Boy, were we happy to see 2021 in!

We have since made our way to Wrightsville Beach, NC. We anchored in the northern end of Adams Creek, then 2 nights in Moorehead City. Today, after the rain ends, we plan to go to shore for the first time in 5 days. We spent yesterday offshore, coming in just in time for the glorious sunset. We are very near the beach, now, so will take the dogs, and ourselves, for a good long walk. Matthew and I have been craving Chick fil-A, so we may order door dash.

We did have a change in crew. Our sweet boy, Falcon passed away in October from a gastric volvulus. He died suddenly despite Lynn spending hours trying to save him. We have been heartbroken as he left a huge 100# hole in our lives. In November Mike got us a German Shorthair Pointer puppy who Matthew named King Adora. Mike calls him Freckles, so now, he needs to grow into a rather large name, King Freckles Adora! He is super sweet and smart and we are loving his company. King is adjusting to the boat remarkable well and we have gotten creative in how to exercise a puppy on a 42 foot boat. He is obsessed with balls and playing fetch and doesn’t care how short the distance is we have to throw the ball, he will do it 100 times. He has also found the highest place to sit and overlook his kingdom and does this several times daily.

Katniss is still with us and acts much older than her 8 years. She has self sabotaged, getting into things she shouldn’t, had a scary bout with pancreatitis this fall, hunted hard and is now looking forward to several months of R&R.

I think that brings everyone up to date on the important stuff. We don’t have definite plans for this season. We have toyed with staying in Florida through March, then heading back to SD until July. I have wanted to sail out to the Dry Tortugas and Ft Jefferson for a long time and we could do that. We could then sail up to Maine for the end of summer and early fall. Right now, this is what we are leaning towards. Plans are written in the sand and change with the tide, however. As always, we are at Gods mercy and will go where and when he directs.

I will try to be better at the blog. Inspiration was lacking for the last several months and I’m now feeling it, again. If you have the inclination to pray for us, please do. The virus is still very much out there and will affect all our choices. As lockdowns and restrictions continue to happen we want to remain safe, keep others safe, not add to the burden of the healthcare system and be compliant. We most likely won’t be leaving the country as a result. As always, the future is unknown.

Leaving Long Island

Our last post was written at the beginning of the Bahamian Lockdown and curfew in the Bahamas.  In the last month we have met and seen people, namely sailors behave at their best and their worst.  We spent roughly a month at Thompson Bay.  We experienced other cruisers offer their assistance with our generator issue.  We helped a few others out with movies and medical advice.  We also made friends with other cruisers.  This was expected.  What we didn’t expect was how a few could become vicious, masked as helping and well meaning advice.

We listened daily as our self elected liaison instructed everyone on what was and was not acceptable.  How we were not allowed on shore and had a specific place to run dogs.  How we were not allowed off our boats, at all.  How protecting the locals was paramount, despite the fact none of us had put ourselves at risk, therefore could not put them at risk.  We witnessed the net controller and liaison and other self appointed cruisers approach 2 boats that came in for fuel.  They verbally attacked one boat who, when answering their interrogation, gave too much information.  Rather than just answering where they had most recently been, gave a 3 month run down, which somehow made their coming from an uninhabited island sound like they had been running amok and dragging the corona virus around with them.   Due to this very public radio conversation, the fuel dock would not sell them 5 gallons of gasoline.  This was the most hostile and unwelcoming thing we had ever experienced!  They had announced they were on their way to Puerto Rico, under the lockdown, completely within reason.  We had recently had friends who had arrived in PR and were forced to move on to the USVI.  Mike wanted to share this information with them, but didn’t want to have the “gestapo” listening.  We asked them to stop by our boat on their way back from the fuel dock so we could give them information regarding their plans  for PR.  When they came by, we knew we were being watched by the rest of the anchorage, they told us they were unable to get fuel.  We shared what we knew about PR and Mike offered to go get their gas for them.  We, although far too social for the anchorage, had been there and permitted to dock for gasoline.  The procedure is to call on the radio when one arrives and the attendants come to the dock, get your can, fill it, then bring it back.  The only problem being that they didn’t always hear the call.  That happened twice that day.  So, he walked up to the store.  They reminded him of the rules and he reminded them they weren’t answering the radio so that he could.  It was all becoming very frustrating.

All this time, the net controllers came on daily and told everyone to stay put.  There was one boat, between lockdowns that said he was leaving.  He was ridiculed to a certain degree and told that they hoped he got home safely despite the order not to move.  It was all very nerve wracking.  We felt to some degree we were held hostage.  They were feeding on fear and exaggerating the Prime Ministers orders.  Mike would call the store when we were able to shop.  He would ask if they preferred us to use the 1 local woman who was shopping for a fee, thereby placing orders or to just come in.  They were so nice and encouraged us to just come in.  Then the  net controllers would say, “NO! absolutely no one on shore!”  Well, we decided Mike would do what those on shore asked us to.  He went to shore and got groceries.  There was a 2 day period between the last lockdowns while we were there.

On Saturday, the boat that was denied fuel decided to move on and make their passage to the USVI.  It was a lockdown day.  When they were sailing out, the net controller, her sidekick and another captain yelled, yes yelled, that the boat couldn’t leave.  They demanded to know where they were going and why.  The captain explained they realized the rules and orders and that as captain he had decided to take advantage of the favorable wind and make his move.  We were able to be in contact with them off the radio.  They shut off their radio to the abuse and shut off their AIS which makes them visible to other boats.  We proceeded to listen to these supposedly well meaning people yell and discuss how angry they were at this boat, debating where they were going and why they were leaving their dingy down, therefore coming to the conclusion they were only pleasure cruising and not seriously sailing.  They came to all kinds of conclusions and assumptions and then announced they were calling law enforcement to report them!  Then, they announced that law enforcement would call the Royal Bahamian Defense Force.  We were flabbergasted!  These are cruisers.  They are the ones that are supposed to stick together!  How could this possibly be happening???  Those of us that were upset and opposed to this behavior were conversing privately and we were warning the outgoing yacht.  They were appalled!  It was so over the top.  We received word the next day that they were about to cross from Crooked Island and no one had approached them since leaving our harbor.  We were relieved for them.

Three days later there were 6 boats that left the anchorage.  Voyager and Ventolines had welcomed a third boat into our buddy boat club and Jeff tagged us the Lockdown Leavers of Long Island.  We were feeling super stealthy and like rebels, even though we followed all the rules and left after the lockdown lifted.  The curfew was still in place.

We made it 70 miles that first day, getting as far away as we possibly could.  We were trying to digest how this lovely island, with people on shore who were so welcoming and we loved our 2 days on shore so much, could leave such a sour taste.  We spoke with one of the other boats that had left at the same time and he was also feeling the same things.  He said he and his wife were dumbstruck at the behavior that Saturday morning.  It felt good to know we weren’t alone.

Since then, we stopped at 3 other settlements and 6 anchorages.  In all this time, no one has accosted us on the radio coming or going.  No one has made us feel unwelcome.  No one has threatened to call law enforcement.  We were in Nassau one night and left during lockdown.  We listened to the RBDF speak with a sailboat that was anchored, asking why they were there when they had given a float plan indicating they were leaving.  The Capt explained that for weather reasons they had decided to stay and had given that information to harbor control.  The RBDF said it also needed to be given to them or port authority, but it was fine, now they knew.  It was all a very civil and not at all a threatening conversation.  Nothing like the so-called liaison in Long Island.  When we came into our present anchorage at Great Harbor we were haled by another boat.  He was looking for anyone who may be making the crossing back to Florida when he is.  This is the kind of people we are used to.  This is what we expect when we talk to one another.  Support, sharing of expertise, helping one another.  It is such a relief to be out of that toxic place.  While there, it was hard to separate the truth of the orders from the interpretation of those blasting from the radio.  It was something like being in an abusive relationship.  The reality was we could leave at any time, but the abusers pretended they could stop us.

I can count on one hand the number of times Matthew, the dogs and I have been off the boat in a little over a month.   This includes sitting on the little boat, Meg,  watching from the water as the dogs go potty and run on an empty beach that I can’t set foot on.  I need a walk.  I need some solitude and alone time.  Voyager is roughly 450 square feet of living space.  Normally in the evening we separate and enjoy our own space ie; the 2 separate cabins and the living room.  This isn’t enough lately!  There are 3 adult sized people and 2 adult sized dogs.  The things one plans for when moving onto a boat is: weather, float plans, where to be to avoid weather, where to go to shore, where to get groceries, where the dogs can run etc.  You don’t expect to be locked down on your boat for indefinite periods.  You’re basically living outside, but you can’t go for a walk.  You can’t just open the door to let your dogs get exercise in the yard.  This has been eye opening.  I doubt we will ever face this sort of thing again.  There are challenges on land and there are challenges at sea, no one could have foreseen this one.

A Smooth Sea Never Made a Skilled Sailor

Hello!

Over the last few weeks we have traveled a fair bit, not staying anywhere for very long.  I had a whole blog post written out, that wouldn’t upload due to poor data service.  Now, I can’t find that post- it’s lost somewhere in the laptop.  Oh well-  I had written it after a decidedly uncomfortable passage from one side of Great Harbour Cay to the other.   This was 2 weeks ago already!

 

We had checked into the Bahamas in Bimini on Feburary 14th after making a night passage from Miami.  We spent 3 days there, enjoying a spectacular beach (Radio Beach), getting some laundry done, eating from a street vender and just generally exploring.  We made several new friends, one boat, has 4 kids on board.  This was good for Matthew as he hadn’t had any kids to play with for a few weeks.  One of my favorite parts about Bimini was the sea glass we found on the beach.  I’ve never seen so much in one place!

From Bimini we headed to the North Berry’s.  We had a nice crossing on the 17th.  SV Woven, the  other kid boat also crossed.  They are on a catamaran and much faster than us.  We anchored on the west side, while they made it into the east.  The next day we made our way around the north end of Coco Cay, Great Stirrup Cay then down to the east side of Great Harbour.  It should have been a couple hour passage and ended up being 4 due to the sea conditions.  We had 6-8 foot swell and waves with only 6 or so seconds between.  It was uncomfortable, unpleasant and we were happy when we got into the bay and anchored.  We hadn’t plowed our bow into waves like that before and were happy nothing broke.  Voyager held up like a champ and kept us safe.  To keep my mind off the rough ride, I threw out my gratitude and listed my blessings to God.  He saw fit to help us pass the time a little more quickly.   We immediately took the dogs to shore and swam and played for awhile, on arrival.  It was good to be settled for the night.

The next day, the 19th, after running the dogs and visiting with Woven we decided to make our way to Nassau.  We thought if  we were tired or conditions didn’t feel right, we would stop at the southern end of the Berry’s for the night.  As it turned out, we had decent conditions and made it to Nassau just after sunset.  And guess who was there?  SV VENTOLINES!  It was reunion time.

We initially anchored in the harbor near the cruise ships, the next day, we made our way to the anchorage by the marina where Ventolines was staying.  Eventually we were able to get a slip at the marina, or at least half of one….  There was a blow coming in on Friday and we were hoping to get in there.  The way it works is rather than a reservation, you call them and become a squeaky wheel.  On Friday morning Mike called at 0800.  Nothing yet.  He called at 1000.  Nothing yet.  He called at 12.  Yes, there’s room.  He may have also mentioned that our beam (the width of our boat) which is 13.5, is now 12 foot.  We aren’t sure if that was what got us a spot or if they really had one.  So, we moved with the tide.  As it turned out, the slip we got was one fit for a yacht with a 20 foot beam and 100 foot length.  There was already another boat there and we were to tie up behind them.  OK!  So, we did.  We were happy to have some security for the predicted winds.

We spent Saturday- Wednesday at the Atlantis, or mostly.  Jennifer, Wyatt, Matthew and I did, anyway.  The guys would come over to play and we had supper at the condo.  We have had a timeshare at the Harborside (part of Atlantis) for 15 years.  Matthew has claimed to have all his birthdays there, which isn’t far from the truth.  We have mostly come the first or second week of December.  So, it’s been either his or Mike’s birthday when we are here.  So, we were very happy to be able to use it this year as we missed out last year.  To have our friends, the Sivori’s join us was icing on the cake. 🙂

Since leaving Nassau the 27th we have been in the Exumas.  This.  Is.  Paradise.  Although, our first anchorage, Elbow Cay was rocky, rolly and overall miserable.  We slept in the cockpit, or the saloon just trying to get a few winks in.  Voyager was making so much noise with the rough anchorage we thought something would break for sure.  We managed to get through the night, then headed south to Samson Cay.

When we were in Miami before crossing over, we had picked up a piece of rigging for crew on Sea Paws.  They are friends of the Sivori’s and had been sitting in Nassau for weeks with a broke forestay.   So, we were able to get that delivered for them.  They crossed to the Exumas when we did and now we have 3 buddy boats in our flotilla.  They also have a dog, Willow on board.  She likes to bark at the dingys and jet skis like ours do.

Right.  Samsons Cay.  We stayed here for 2 nights.  We recovered from our traumatic night at Elbow Cay and found beaches and sandbars to play on.  The dogs were happy, we were happy and we met some other cruisers that topped it off.

Next stop, Staniel Cay.  You may have heard of this little island.  If not Staniel, then probably Thunderball Grotto.  This is the location of 2 James Bond films.   Thunderball, obviously and Never Say Never Again.   We snorkeled the grotto before leaving Staniel Cay yesterday.  We were anchored nearby, so dingyed over.  Ventolines was also there.  Sea Paws had gone the day before.  I was pretty hesitant about going in because I thought I would have to dive under and through a cave to get inside.  I had watched a few of our favorite YouTube channels when they went in and of course, they made it more dramatic.  So, it turns out at low tide, when we went, we were about to just swim in.  The lowest spot was about 6 inches above water and it was just a point that came down towards the water.  The land mass is volcanic rock that is sharp and jagged, so that is what you’re swimming through and under to get inside.  There are thousands of fish inside and the coral is so brightly colored.  There are many “holes” in the ceiling.  We know people have jumped in through the holes but there are signs discouraging that.  The ceiling height is probably 25-30 feet, so the distance gives plenty of room for the sunlight to stream down and add to the experience.  Unfortunately, our Go-Pro was dead when we got there, so we didn’t get any pictures.  I will be requesting some from Jeff so I can share them.

After snorkeling, we made our way a few more miles south to Black Point.  This is a very popular place for cruisers.  What we know so far is that Miss Ida at the laundromat not only does the laundry but gives the best haircuts in the Exumas.  Matthew may give her some business later today.  Our first trip to shore, to find the lay of the land, we asked a couple children heading home from school where we could find some ice cream.  They directed us to a house that sat back from the road.  The resident there sold us some Blue Bunny ice cream from a small room outside her house.  We got 3 cones for $6 and felt like we got a heck of a deal.   There are 4 restaurants.  One of them, Scorpios, offers a cruisers happy hour 3 nights a week.  Not only do they offer 2 for 1 drinks, but very, very affordable food options.  This is a big deal!  We had 3 appetizers Carribean Chicken, conch fritters and loaded fries and it came to under $40.  The same thing, the night before in Staniel was $80.  You can imagine how welcome this is.  We are usually very frugal when cruising.   This season, however, we are trying to be more supportive of local entrepreneurs thereby supporting the local people.  So, we are eating away from the boat more often.

So, we go to get back into Meg, the dingy, to come home last night at dusk.  We look down and there are 2 nurse sharks laying on the floor under the dingys.  This was a little unsettling, but they are harmless.  We got home and settled and Mike started the generator to run the fridge and watermaker.  Since nothing had broken in our adventures so far, I guess it was time.  Our generator is now only giving us 90 volts.  We need 110.  We are now trying to come up with a solution.  Sea Paws is lending us a portable generator to run our fridge today.  Mike is trying to troubleshoot with people he knows that have some knowledge of generators and researching online.  We have a few spare parts and are hoping that it may be one of those that is the problem.

This will bring you, our faithful readers up to speed.  I’m hoping to be a little more diligent in writing.  We seem to have spent so much time on the go that I haven’t taken the time to sit at the laptop.  I will however, try to get a few more pictures up.  If we, at some point get a little better wifi service, I will definitely post more often and get some more pictures up, as well.

Slainte’

Back at It

Hello Faithful Followers!

So sorry it’s been so long, but we are back!  /) /) /)

While we were on land, I fell off the blogging wagon.  We got busy with building and diy projects, then we both went back to work for a few months to refill the kitty somewhat.  Mike made several trips to Voyager to get some projects done, so we wouldn’t all be sitting in the yard waiting to launch, while he worked.  We still were there 2 weeks, but that wasn’t so bad.  Mikes brother Nick and niece Sophia came for a few days.  That was fun as we hadn’t visited with them in a very long time.  We explored a little, Nick helped with the boat and Sophia and Matthew played chess, PS4 and piano together.  It was a great visit!

SV Voyager is currently sitting on a mooring ball at St Augustine.  We love it here, this city is just very interesting and pretty.  So, that said, we aren’t in a huge hurry to push on.  Mike is getting a few things repaired that we found along the trip the last 2 days.  You know what “BOAT” stands for, right?  Bring Out Another Thousand!  He found our stuffing box (keeps water from coming in around the propeller shaft) was leaking substantially.   He called a friend back at the boat yard who gave him a few ideas on repairs and that’s what he has done today.  It is fixed and we can be on our way tomorrow.  Another project Mike decided to tackle today is installing a wireless control for the windless.  The controls at the bow gave out last year, so Mike has had to give hand signals from the bow for me to operate the windless from the pedestal.  He is now installing/connecting the AIS cable.  AIS (automatic identification system) allows other vessels to “see” us on their navigation systems.  This makes for safer passages and also gives such information as boat name, whether is under sail or power, speed,  heading, etc.  When haling another boat we see on the horizon, it’s handy to know who and what we are calling.  We may need to do this in order to make corrections in our heading to avoid collision, etc.

Tonight we are going to do a haunted history tour of St Augustine on one of the trolleys.  We love history, so it should be fun.  The dogs and I have taken several walks and investigated some historic parts of town, the National Cemetery and some narrow alleys that quite frankly felt colonial.

When Mike used a Lyft yesterday he felt compelled to give the driver a history lesson, as she had only recently moved here.  He was able to give her a complete history on Henry Flagler’s  contribution to the city and the state of Florida.    He was quite an upstanding guy and influential with his prestige and money earned from being the brains behind Standard Oil.

Mike made several short video clips while doing boat repairs.  I call them “Mike’s hacks”.  I think I’m going to put them together for a short YouTube video.  That will be coming soon- stay tuned.

So, anyhoo- we are once again on the water and gradually heading south.  We have some friends we met in Green Turtle last year we are hoping to meet up with as they are also in St Augustine, presently.  There are a couple other friends we met in Miami that we hope to see there in a few days.  Overall, this is an exciting time as we begin our sailing season for 2020-

Slainte’

Back to Land Life….For Now

Right.   We have been home for 3 weeks.  This should have been an easy transition, right?  Nope.

We were/are so happy to see our family and friends.  We have missed them so much!  We have had lunch dates and play dates.   Mom and Dad came up for a birthday party we held for Megan and Luc (because we missed their birthdays) and we met them for a picnic on Fathers Day. We have seen the “big kids” and our grandson, Lucian almost daily.  All of this does our hearts so good.  Missing them was the hardest parts of being away.

So, what are we doing?  We are settled back into our camper.  Mike, has several wood working projects going and we are continuing our “sell everything so we can keep sailing” project.  Anyone need any horse halters???  How about some automatic horse waterers?  A car?  A truck?  Maybe some home furnishings…..?  There are repairs to be made.  The barn, windows, sucker rod fencing that needs welded, etc.  It’s the basic upkeep of owning a place.  I’ve made some new curtains for our room in the camper and I’m helping Sean around his place and we are re-established at church.  We have VBS coming up, which is always a fun week.  The boys (our former foster kids) will be staying with us for a few days this week, as well.

I’ve been giving a lot of thought to how the Lord has used us this past year.  The conclusion I’ve come to is that where I was the most miserable, He was using us the most.  For example, selling our practice.  I went through a bit of a depression while this process was happening.   But, the new owner is realizing her dream of being her own boss.  Another example, the hardest, was when we let the foster kids go.  We, in all honesty, would have kept them forever.  We asked about getting them passports and taking them (knowing that was very unlikely).  My heart was torn and then Lynn said she had prayed about it and wanted to pursue getting licensed and potentially adopting them.  This, although so hard to deal with at the time, has been ideal.  Lynn has blossomed into genuine mom material.  She and the boys have been blessed beyond measure and to see the positive changes in the boys,  because of what she can offer them has been completely worth it!

When we left, we had been in our camper for 6 months and although tight, was not uncomfortable.   We missed the hardest and longest winter in recent history (not that we are complaining about that) but it would have been terribly uncomfortable if we were continuing to live in the camper.  Then there was the boat yard.  Six weeks that WAS a little uncomfortable.  We ended up with a much more sound boat than we started out with AND more importantly, ended up spending the next 3 months with a family, the Sivori’s, who will be life long friends.  The Lord saw fit to put us within 4 miles of each other when starting out when we were all expecting to be on completely different schedules when we met in Brunswick 2 months before.  Add all this to personalities that compliment each other, boys that are the same age and what I think was especially important, was that we were all taking off into unknown waters (literally) and had each other for support, back up, friendship and companionship.   I’m not sure I would be so “boatsick” of it wasn’t for meeting these wonderful people!

So~ I miss waking up to the bluest and clearest water on earth, wondering what the days adventure will be.  I miss looking out and seeing a random pod of dolphins, or a ray, or sea stars and other fish.  I miss the gentle (and sometimes not so gentle) rolling of the boat when I go to bed.  I miss Matthew having his own room, hopefully this is remedied soon.  But, I’m happy to have my dog, Cookie to wake up to and my big kids and grandson very nearby.  My closest friends that I can call and suggest lunch, or a movie, or a sip and paint class.  I can see my parents within a few hours drive.  I’m happy to sit with my church family on Sundays and being able to participate and teach my crafts class for VBS again this year and celebrate the Fourth this week in the church parking lot.  This is why we came home and why we will be hear for a few more months.

SV Ventolines
Missing this crew like crazy!

Voyager
Voyager and her crew 2019

Well, I’m off to do some yardwork and sort some things for donation.

In the meantime, if you haven’t watched our YouTube videos check them out.  If you would like better video quality and a few glimpses of us, check out Sailing Ventolines YouTube channel.  Links to both:

The Preys Project/ SV Voyager

Sailing Ventolines:

Slainte’