First Mate Log Excerpts

This blog post is 90% directly from the log. We had crazy weather with hiding from wind to wonderful days fishing and visiting friends. Our first few weeks of the season were a bit of a roller coaster, and the log depicts that better than any flowery verbiage I can throw at you.

2/17/24 Wind SW 7-9knts H73 L69 mostly overcast

Slept like a rock at Mangrove Cay. The boys got a couple small lobster- Mike ate one and Wyatt the other. Otherwise, pork chops, mashed potatoes, salad for supper. This morning hauled anchor at 0900- headed for Great Sale (19 miles). Last year the kids (including Preston) caught several fish and lobster here. We will be able to take dogs to shore- so I’m all for that. Temp is lovely- there have not been any bugs- thank you Jesus! We sailed 3kts for a few hours- Ventolines flew their spinaker as their jib is torn. Now motoring the rest of the way so they can fish. It’s been grand so far. Looking forward to setting foot on some sand and in some sea water. ETA now 3pm.

2/18/24 Wind NNE 15-30kts H71 L68 Overcast Great Sale #2 -> Tom Johnson Sound Great Sale #3

Woke up to wind/squall from NE- NOT predicted. Discussed with Ventolines and made plan to go around the Cay. Initial anchorage was miserable- so glad to get moving. Had a downwind motor sail to begin with then back into the wind as we got closer. There’s a catamaran that seems to be going the same direction. Will watch church when we get anchored. Not sure what the plan will be tomorrow.

2/20/24 Wind NNW 10-15kts H69 L65 Some clouds Great Sale-> Allens Pensacola

Sat out a gale yesterday- 38kts 1-2′ seas. Today we sail!! We have full main and jib making 6kts consistently, we saw up to 7.3 kts with a gust. We are playing with sail trim and have decided the new main has made quite a difference. We haven’t stopped at Allens Pensacola before- so will be nice to have a new spot.

We ended up at Manjack with a ROLLY anchorage for the 2 nights. We were able to run dogs, thankfully. (We still haven’t anchored at Allens Pensacola.)

2/22/24 Wind E 10kts H73 L66 Sunny (Praise be to God!) Manjack-> GTC (Green Turtle Cay)

Nice beam reach to GTC with the genoa. Two trips to fuel dock topping off diesel and gas. (We can’t get Voyager to the fuel dock here, or most places in The Bahamas, so we make trips filling our jerry cans to fill the tanks.) Saw small shark and large ray at the dock. Ran dogs at Manjack this morning. Hoping for a date night. (The adults did go out for supper. We met a fun young woman from the US, Adrienne.)

2/23/24 S winds high teens-24 kts cloudy H74 L67 Rain likely GTC-> Marsh Harbour

*Salty* Passage. 10-12′ seas and sporty through Whale Cut. More weather coming tonight and tomorrow. No one is seasick, thankfully. We are definitely ready and hoping for better weather. We will see if we can visit Bob and Janice (Cronin, from Sturgis who own property on Abaco) while we are at Marsh.

2/25/24 10kts NE H70 Witch Point-> Black Point

Sailing with the head sail at 4kts. Walked about 2 miles on shore on dirt road- was delightful. Janice and Bob Cronin drove us to Abaco Grocery and Maxwells yesterday. Such a blessing to us! Will stay at Black Point tonight and Linyard tomorrow and hopefully ‘Lutra Tuesday. Listening and watching church while underway. Luke 3:7-20 Boys have caught 2 conch, 1 grouper, lionfish and a snapper. Ventolines crew came for supper last night and we played Telestrations.

2/26/24 Light breeze H74 L59 Sunny Black Point-> Linyard Cay

Walked the beach and abandoned House- would love to buy that place. The walls and foundation are alright- plaster has cracked and interior wood is rotting. There’s still a roof. The walls are made of rock. I imagine the foundation is as well. I may investigate….. Listening to Maya Angelou- Letter To My Daughter. Boys plan to spear more fish.

This is how our first 9 days went. Although the weather improves somewhat over the next few weeks, we have other “incidents” that pop up. Stay tuned for that drama!

Slainte’

2024 Sailing Season Opener

January 20, 2024

From our log:

“Crew: Captain Mike, First Mate Erin, Second Mate Matthew, King and Sidney

16th wedding anniversary and splash day! We launched at 0700 and made our way down the ICW to St Augustine. It was an uneventful motor- other than being so cold. (I don’t remember that it was cold, truth be told- just that we were on our way.) We used the vent that Mike rigged from the engine room and that made it tolerable. in the enclosure.

Sea Rat and Seadacious splashed Thursday. Sea Rat is hunkered down at Fernandina as they don’t have an enclosure. SeaDacious is here in St Augustine for a few days. We are waiting for a new Starlink Cable and a few other items- most important being coffee. Looks like moving on Thurs the 25th- again on the inside.”

This was the start of our trip to the Bahamas. We made it to Vero Beach on the 27th where we waited for a replacement Starlink. It ended up being sent to SD and we had a heck of a time getting it sent to us. Our dear son-in-law Jon sent it to our oldest son’s friend Brady in Palm Coast, and he ended up delivering it to us. What a mess. But- we have realized we are safer and better able to do all the things with it, so we delayed our crossing.

On the 12th we moved to Ft Pierce then Jensen Beach the 13th. In Jensen Beach we had a delightful German meal and that’s where Brady delivered the Starlink.

The 15th we were FINALLY on our way across the Gulf Stream. We headed south then across from West Palm Beach inlet. It was roughly 22 hours of miserable conditions. There was nothing unsafe, but we rank it in our top 5 uncomfortable passages. Little did we know it wouldn’t get better for quite a while. Most of our passages and anchorages would remain rolly and nauseating for the next few weeks. Notable thoughts from the log; “M and Mike stood watch from 1900-0400……. I was grateful to be in bed as we were all seasick…… M did is first tack on his own and learned a lesson about over steering…… Dogs did well.”

We had finally made it, after a few setbacks. Next up: how we spent our first weeks back *home* in The Bahamas!

Stay tuned!

Slainte’

More of this next time!

Flight of the Bumble Bee

Deerfield Lake. One of many gorgeous places in the Black Hills of South Dakota

wanderlust

noun

wan·​der·​lust ˈwän-dər-ˌləst 

strong longing for or impulse toward wandering (Ref Merriam-Webster Dictionary)

I think that word sums Mike and I up pretty well. I say I’m bad at commitment, but really, I’m bad at staying any one place for very long. I LOVE to go home…. for a while. I need to be outside. I need the sun and the breeze and nature. I have worked a few places for a long time, but I’m ready for a change of scenery before too much time has gone by. I love being a nurse, but I’m probably better suited as a park Ranger. Or a logger. Maybe an offshore fisherman. Or at the very least a long-haul trucker (my 8-year-old self-wanted this desperately).

Ok, what’s all this about? When we went back to South Dakota last summer, we knew we would be home for about 6 months. It was the longest we had been home for a few years. It was the longest we had been ANYWHERE for a few years. So, it shouldn’t surprise anyone that about a month in, we needed something to satisfy our wanderlust.

Enter the FOBB i.e. The Flight of The Bumble Bee. Flitting around like a bee seemed like an adequate description of us. Megan suggested the name and I set about decorating the interior with bumblebee patterns. FOBB is a 1984 Western Wilderness cabover camper. Yes, we do like the stuff from the 80’s, especially 1984 (Voyager is also a 1984, so is Summer Breeze the little sailboat). The idea was that we would go out into the woods and camp as much as possible. Then, when I was ready to go back to work, I could have the FOBB as my comfortable and affordable home on wheels. Seemed like a perfect solution.

Right. So, we went to Dalton Lake several times. We went to Roubaix Lake. We went to Deerfield Lake and Box Elder Forks twice. We drove out to the Badlands. All of these trips were lovely. It was peaceful and quiet. Luc came with us a few times and so did his parents and sister once. This made my wandering heart incredibly happy. Of course, we never went often enough, or long enough, but it kept me content.

Then, it was time to go to work. I took a 12-week contract in Martin, SD to work at Bennett County Hospital, where I’ve worked off/on since 2020. I found a family campground, only 5 spots and arranged to be there for my 6 on (8 off) that I would be working. Well, the first trip went well. Everything worked great! The second trip, the pickup- a 1996 Ford F250 that Mike bought new in 1996 gave me grief. It has very low miles and has mostly sat since we started sailing. It’s hauled horses all over the country and tons and tons of hay and other large items (a 1968 Chevelle was brought home from Miami by Sean and me in 2007). So- this otherwise reliable pickup just crapped out going up the hill just past the Wasta Rest Area (keep this in mind). OK, quick disclaimer. I90 across South Dakota is isolated. The towns between Rapid City in the west and Sioux Falls in the east are sparse and don’t have an accumulated population of 20,000. Mike drove out and we ended up having it towed to Wall, 12 miles east. (Google Wall Drug to see where I’m getting towed to.) From this trip on, I broke down 3 more times (I only have 6 total trips to make), all between the Wasta Rest Area and Wall. I got very well aquainted with Gerry at Badlands Auto, who tried as he might, found no solution to this off/on problem in the pickup. We also decided this area was something of a Bermuda triangle for the Ford. We took the old thing to our usual go to guy, Brian Peterson. He too thought he had things sorted. My next (and last) trip ended at Wall, when I didn’t have enough power to make it any further. Now, let me clarify. My drive to work is 172 miles. And it’s fall. Fall in SD means unpredictable weather. So, this last trip was of course a big snowfall in October. I left the pickup in Wall with Gerry and my brave friend Lynn, her kids and man, Scott brought my van out to me. I was able to arrange a cabin and got to work 4 hours late. Thank goodness they were understanding.

By this time, Mike had gone back to the boat. He was replacing rigging and pulling the mast. He was gone a month (I wished at this point I was too) and that left me to sort out getting the Ford home. Sean to the rescue. He got a hold of Trampus, a friend who has a pickup and trailer large enough to bring home the pickup with the camper on it. We made arrangements and Gerry let me stop in to pay my bill the next trip through on my way to work (I paid Gerry a total of $100 for the 2 times the pickup was there- he’s a stand-up guy). Trampus got the pickup loaded and sent a text stating he didn’t think it had enough power to do even that but managed it. When he got it home, we were ready to unload. Sean hopped up there and when it started, it sounded just fine! No missing cylinders, nothing! All normal! So, he drove it off the trailer and as we were talking, I said, “well, I guess I’m good to drive it to work Thursday, huh?” Of course I was kidding, but they both nervously laughed and said, I better not.

So, ends the story of the FOBB. She’s been tucked into the shop attached to the barndo ever since. I’m hoping we will have it all sorted this next summer, 2024. I love that little camper. It was comfortable and has everything we need. There are so many more trips I’d like to take….. Maybe Alaska?????

What do you do to cure the wanderlust?

Slainte’

St Augustine Shenanigans

Once stateside, we made our way to the St Augustine area. We were expecting a visit from friends from South Dakota.

We anchored near Ft Matanzas and explored there for a day. This area is a National Monument. There us a ferry service that runs several times a day. There is no fee, but an advance ticket is required as the boat fills up quickly. The dogs weren’t allowed, so we left Matthew with them as he wasn’t even slightly interested. There isn’t a great deal to see, but we enjoyed the brief tour, nonetheless.

The fort was completed in 1742 and protected 300 acres of seashore. There were previous watchtowers in the area, as early as 1569. The Spanish built the tower that still stands, today. The area, as well as St Augustine 15 miles to the north, played an important role in early American history.

Later, we took the dogs downriver a little and let them run on the muddy beach. It was good exercise for them despite needing to be bathed before they could get back on the boat.

There was a blow expected and we weren’t sure where the safest place would be. St Augustine is rather wide open despite how popular of a port it is. We called around, then followed the suggestion from Jodi Argo Schroath in the ICW Mile by Mile Guide and decided on Marineland Marina. It’s inexpensive and pet friendly. There’s also wonderful access to the beach and nature trail. The downside is it’s not really within walking distance of anywhere. Don’t expect Enterprise to pick you up- I could expound on how I know- but just take my word for it.

We did eventually get a rental car and were able to get our van from St Marys. This enabled us to provision and the guys got haircuts. We planned to stay for about a week, and that would make the visit with Lynn and the kids more manageable. We would have preferred to be in St Augustine for convenience, but this ended up being a great place to stay.

Lynn’s birthday coincided with their visit. She and I both enjoy tea, so I made a reservation at a little place called The Chatsworth. They serve High Tea a couple times a week and I jumped on it. We had a few teas to choose from, then sandwiches and desserts. It was very fun. We both got a little dressed up and bought new Panama hats for the occasion. She hadn’t been to St Aug before, so we walked St George Street and went through a couple of the quaint neighborhoods. It was a delightful trip.

Mike took the boys fishing one day as well. They went offshore a little way with a guide. Most of what they caught was red snapper, which is restricted. They didn’t get to bring anything home but had a fun day anyway.

After Lynn, Kadrian and Kyrihn went home, we continued north to Cumberland Island. As we have mentioned previously, it’s one of our all-time favorite places. We adventured a little further this time and anchored near Plum Orchard. We were able to tour the mansion and walked across the island to the beach. It was a longer walk than we thought, about 6.5 miles round trip, but it was to be our last beach day of the season, so we did it anyway.

On June 8th, after a couple days, the Ventolines crew went on to Brunswick and we went to St Marys. The 2023 sailing season was coming to an end.

Next up: our shore leave. Land life is just as adventurous for us, but it’s altogether different. We still have a hard time sitting still and you’ll see what we buy to help our gypsy itch.

Our last beach day for the 2023 season.

Slainte’

Making The Turn North

As with all good things there comes a time to say goodbye. Well, not yet.

Crooked Island would be the furthest south and east we have traveled to date aboard Voyager. Every season we say we will go into the Carribean, and so far, the Bahamas have kept a hold of us. We aren’t complaining. We definitely want to spend more time on Crooked and Acklins, and the Raggeds but maybe next season, 2024, will be the one we push further.

Settled in for the passage.

When we left Crooked Island, with tears in our eyes, and the Lighthouse on Bird Rock to our stern we made our way west, back to Long Island. We anchored at Gordon’s Beach and had refreshments at the new (to us) establishment there. While I had been back in South Dakota a few weeks before, the rest of the crew had driven to Gordon’s and knew what is offered. We had also visited back in March of 2020, the day the Island was locked down for covid, but there was no place of business at that time. The beach here is outstanding! Long and white and just as beautiful as you can imagine a beach to be. Jennifer and I walked the beach and the guys hung out at a table on the beach, enjoying the serenity.

From Long Island, we made our way north through the Exuma chain, visiting some of our favorite places. If you’ve been there, or heard anything about the Exumas, you know that Staniel Cay Yacht Club is a must stop. Also, Black Point for Lorraine’s Mom’s (her name is Peermora) bread. We stopped for the first time in the Land and Sea Park and made a trip up BooBoo Hill to leave our sign.

We enjoyed a day, actually Mother’s Day, at Normans Cay. We anchored around the cut last time, and snorkeled Pablo Escabars wrecked and sunken plane the last time we were here. We believe we had the most expensive meal we have ever paid for there for our Mother’s Day dinner. But the moms were happy!

Staniel Cay Yacht Club. I’m sure there’s pictures of Jimmy Buffet if you look close.

The next place of interest was the eastern most end of Chubb Cay. There’s a network of lagoons where the turtles, sting rays and other sea life are abundant. We took a dingy excursion and got a few on film. It was a lot of fun! Unfortunately, our gopro is an older model and the pictures and videos are of poor quality.

Making our way west, we anchored on Mackie Shoals, which is 40 miles from Bimini in open water and is 16 feet deep. It feels a little odd and can be quite uncomfortable in the wrong conditions. We then made our way to Bimini. We have stayed at Bimini Blue Water Marina a few times. There’s a pool and places to eat nearby. However, Jennifer and my favorite part is the sea glass from Radio Beach. It’s the most abundant of anywhere we have been! We could spend hours collecting glass. Well, we did spend hours collecting…. This was our last stop before heading back to the states. Matthew and I negotiated for an extra day, as we weren’t ready to go, none of us were, really. But we only had a day left on our visas and cruising permits. We weren’t going to risk it.

Almost immediately after leaving Bimini we saw this huge waterspout.

Seeing an American city in the distance was a little shocking after the peaceful and tranquil scenery in The Bahamas. But it was time to be stateside. Our Bahamian flag was a little battle worn but made for a cute cape for our Bahamian Potcake.

A Fellow Traveler- but of the terra firma variety

“Travel is never a matter of money, but of courage.”
– Paulo Coelho

Roger Brown looks like the Santa Claus who rides a Harley-Davidson and has been on a diet. He is white haired, white bearded and jolly, and he likes to party. He is incredibly friendly and sincere in his words. I’ve been acquainted with Roger for several years. Believe it or not, he is a good friend of my daughter, Megan and her husband Jon. I first met him at the baby shower we hosted when Meg was pregnant with grandson, Lucian now 7. We had a huge turn out with most of her coworkers from Target, of which Roger and his wife, Sharon were in attendance.

Roger and “the kids”

Roger and Sharon are from Missouri- pronouncing the “i” as an “ah” and this endeared them to me, as this is correct pronunciation if you’re from there. I was born in Branson, and it is my second hometown, if such a thing exists. Roger was actually born in Indiana, but you wouldn’t know it from the accent- he sounds Ozarkian. He ended up in MO after being drafted in the Army in 1971. He was an ENT specialist and phlebotomy technician near St Louis, where he remained for the next 37 years. He met Sharon during this time, and they married at a little chapel in Harrison Arkansas December 21, 1991.

Right- Megan would share Missouri stories with Roger and recount their favorite places in the area. This led to a sweet friendship. Roger has stayed with us, in our pasture, the last few years during the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. He has become a fulltime traveler/RVer travelling exclusively over the last 15 months. Megan thought it would be a good idea to sit down and compare modes of travel and living a simple life with him.

Roger and Sharon first became interested in full time RV living after a vacation stay in South Dakota around 2010. They were headed for Yellowstone and stopped in Deadwood as they were fans of the show, by the same name. They were taken especially with Custer State Park (I can see why, it’s my favorite place in SoDak).

After retiring from Toyota, they travelled in a diesel pusher, bus for 2 years. Sharon hated it, Roger loved it. Roger was disappointed but took the opportunity to suggest a move to South Dakota as they had been completely smitten with the area. Surprisingly, despite concerns about the winters, she agreed. They bought a mobile home near Black Hawk, which meant they remained debt free. Roger decided to take a part time job to supplement his retirement and went to work for Target, working the 0400-0900 shift. He said he became fast friends with “the kids” as the older guys only wanted to talk about politics and serious stuff.

Unfortunately, in December 2018 Sharon was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer. She passed away in November 2019 after a brave battle with surgery and chemotherapy. Their daughter had been living with them while she was ill and after her death eventually went back to MO.

After Sharon’s death, Roger retired again. This time, he decided he would travel. He put his home on the market with a former Target co-worker who was now selling real estate. He was able to accept a cash offer and buy his travel trailer, a 24-foot Forest River Greywolf toy hauler, that carries his Hog and is easily pulled by his pickup. The first destination: Missouri, to see his other daughter. From there he’s been to Las Vegas, Death Valley, Colorado and up the West Coast.

Roger hasn’t set out to stay in campgrounds with a long list of amenities, although he does do that on occasion. He is really in it for the experience. He is seeing the country and soaking it all in. Harvest Hosts and Boondockers Welcome (merged sites in 2021, offering somewhat different experiences) are his go to app’s. Harvest Hosts is an app that lists various small businesses, farms, orchards, wineries, breweries, etc that allow an RVer to park for a night on the condition of making some kind of purchase. So far, he has utilized Harvest Hosts 14 times. Some of the more memorable experiences are staying on an alpaca farm, olive oil farm, wineries and a buffalo ranch. He has a picture of him holding a baby alpaca that is adorable! He also assisted in pruning at the winery and purchased fresh olive oil, sold in a tin can.

He has used Boondockers Welcome 9 times and been more than pleased with that service as well. Like HH, Boondockers Welcome is an app that shows people willing to allow an RV to park for a night or two. The hosts get a free membership in return. In this case, though, it is private people with a driveway or pasture, etc, not a business. They sometimes request $10-15 for electricity or sometimes just a donation. He says he has met some “good people” this way. He once was approached by a woman who saw his SD license plates who asked, “real or fake”. She was obviously aware that many full timers will acquire a residence in SD after a 1-night stay. This is due in part to no state income tax. He said his response to this was, “this time real, next time fake.” He also points out that he will remain registered to vote in SD but will only participate in National elections and if selected for jury duty, will be excused as a full-time traveler. He uses America’s Mailbox for mail service as well as occasionally receiving mail sent “general delivery” to wherever he may be at the time.

Besides BW and HH, Roger spends about 50% of time boondocking in dispersed camping sites in the National Forest. He says he has obtained maps from local ranger stations and uses Google Maps for his navigation, only getting lost once when his mode of transportation somehow switched to bicycle. When I hear him talk about his sites and navigation, my mind goes to anchorages, marinas and AquaMaps or Navionics. Roger also said that for $10 he can get a day pass at a KOA for use of shower, grabage and tank dumping and filling with water, like a dingy landing fee at a marina or yacht club.

Roger says his all-time favorite bike ride is Big Sur. This also happens to be where I stepped into the ocean for the first time. His speaking so fondly brought back memories of elation to taste the freezing sea water for the first time. That was the start of something life changing for me. He says that Hwy 1 is “beautiful and gorgeous”. He spent one week in Joshua Tree National Park for $12/night.

Roger is considering getting a host gig. He was recruited in Oregon, but the timing wasn’t right. He really enjoyed the sand dunes there, though, so he may reconsider. There is a FB group for work camping that he’s been looking at. Other locations or destinations on his list are Quartz Side, AZ where he can get a back country permit for $180 for 7 months. Free water and dump site included. Sequoia, Yosemite, Volcano NP and Crater Lake are also on the list for the coming year.

We recently bought an older (of course) pickup box camper for our old horse hauling Ford since there aren’t horses around anymore. We call it the FOBB (Flight of the Bumble Bee as we tend to not sit still long). We took several local camping trips over the summer but were really interested in Roger’s way of camping and living. There are similarities in cruising on a sailboat, to living on the road. We plan to spend more time heading down the highway when on shore leave and were grateful for Roger’s insight and experience.

We haven’t spent much time at all on the West Coast, and the PNW is especially appealing to us, so those tidbits are extra appreciated. We have thrown the idea around of making a road trip to Alaska sometime in the next year or so. Who wants to talk to us about that?

Other recommendations from Roger are:

“Leave Only Footprints” by Conor Knighton This is a book on the National Parks and he found it humerous.

He also enjoys John Two Hawks who is a vocalist and flute player.

Until next time-

Slainte’